On Food Restrictions

John’s clothes were made of camel’s hair, and he had a leather belt around his waist. His food was locusts and wild honey.

—Matthew 3:4

Many cooks and food writers have nothing but negative things to say about people who have dietary restrictions or preferences. Often it’s suggested that you just make what you want to make, and everyone can find something to eat, most likely. But if feeding people around your table is about connecting with them more than about showing off your skills, isn’t it important to cook in such a way that their preferences or restrictions are honored?

I’ve heard several chefs and home cooks say their solution is to only invite dinner guests who aren’t picky, are allergy-free, and who love to eat. For me, that would mean not inviting some of my closest friends and family, and instead having some sort of open-casting call for low-maintenance eaters for my dinner parties. That sounds like a terrible plan.

Instead of being annoyed at my guests’ proclivities and restrictions, I’ve tried to look at them as a challenge. Cooking with staples like bread and sugar is easy. Making things taste great with big-flavor items like bacon and cream is a snap. How do I honor and nourish my guests without red meat or dairy or gluten? That’s where the challenge begins.